Kolkata is not for the regular tourist! From the long queues at the immigration desk of the airport, to the noisy diesel spewing Ambassador taxis, (archaic yet spacious) to the potholed roads, to the heat and humidity, the city at first sight, is anything but attractive. And though you may have heard reams about its warmth and its people’s love for culture, its first impressions rarely leave you wanting more.
But I believe if one really wants to know a city then you have to get off the beaten track. I like to think of this quaint hometown of mine like a moody woman…if you want to know her you will have to let her have it her way…let her show you around…..not on those ubiquitous yellow taxis but by getting on a boat, on the river that flows by her, the Ganges or the Hugli, as it is referred to locally.
No Indian metropolis has a river this large flowing by it and that is where Kolkata is unique and that is from where she seems most beautiful. A cruise down this river affords views of the beautiful Dakshineswar and Belur temples in the north, one of the largest railways stations in India at Howrah, the old and graceful cantilever Howrah Bridge, the second largest cricket stadium of the world, Eden gardens, and the 200 years old Botanical Gardens to name but a few of the sights. One could simply continue south and also see the largest delta of the world, the Sunderbans (home to the gorgeous Royal Bengal Tiger) but that would be a weekend expedition in itself.
The largest river of India meanders lazily through Kolkata and under its bridges, reflecting the pace of the city. This cruise could be beautiful any time of the day, any day of the year.
The sad part is that there are no organized or guided tour boats for visitors to the city. You would have to just hop on to one of those small individual wooden boats and ask the Majhi to row you downstream or indulge in the brief version by taking a passenger ferry across. Like the rest of the state, tourism seems to be languishing and is low on the list of priorities of the city’s administrators and private investors. Ironic given that tourism is set to be the largest industry worldwide!
Rima, well begun, left me craving for more! Couldn't agree more to the tourism bit. Right from mughal imprints to British architecture, from natural beauty to art and culture, Kolkata has a lot to offer. I once took a self-guided walk from behind Lalbazar towards north on one of my birthdays amidst MPhil field-work and was left fascinated.
ReplyDeleteI also remember taking one of my German friends to Kolkata during the boimela (I told her, that's the best time and place to know this city). She stood in awe outside Howrah station - "I have never seen such a broad river!" I was quite surprised, for this is a view I have grown up with, never realising it could be something unique to our dear own Kolkata.
Interesting read, Rima. How about online resources? Anything worthwhile to browse through before visiting?
ReplyDeleteOnline resources on tourism in West Bengal (same could be said about most of India) are available but they are rather limited. Also there has been "talk" of river tourism of late but not much action.
ReplyDeleteThanks Jhil, promise will be back, already working on my next one. I also owe it to another friend who said she's looking forward to the next one.
ReplyDeleteHi Rima,
ReplyDeleteGood first post...keep writing..you have a reader in me.
Sandhya